 |
by Jo Bailey and Carl Nyberg This is the kind of place we love: tiny, easily accessible but isolated and peaceful. As we always say, winter cruising in Puget Sound can be a delightful experience providing you keep warm and dry, have a secure destination, and be aware of weather, tides and currents. We'll help with the destinations, the rest is up to you. Winter cruising lends itself well to local explorations, a time to visit lesser known places that aren't too far from home. Familiar names explored Puget Sound 214 years ago; Lt. Peter Puget and Sailing Master Joseph Whidbey in May 1792, 15 years before Lewis and Clark began their incredible expedition across the country. Puget and Whidbey, part of Capt. George Vancouver's contingent exploring the Northwest Coast of North America, were aided in their amazing seven-day voyage through the entire sound by friendly, extremely knowledgable local Indians who shared their nautical expertise and meals. We now have detailed charts, navigation aids, marinas, gas docks, state parks, cities, towns and villages all along the way, including homes clinging to bluffs and squatting on no-bank beaches, surrounded by second and third growth evergreens. This month we visit Kopachuck and Cutt Island State Parks in Carr Inlet west of Gig Harbor Peninsula. Kopachuck and Cutts For those sailing to Carr Inlet from the north you have to go through the Tacoma Narrows. This gives you a chance to see the new Narrows bridge under construction immediately south of Sturdy Gertie. It's pretty impressive, in spite of the hundreds of miles of wires yet to be installed and tensioned. Given the Narrow's often strong currents, this does require careful planning ahead to be certain you take advantage of slack currents and those that will help and not hinder your progress. Those currents can be really strong, but there are also times during each day when they're pretty benign. Some mariners are uncertain about this part of the trip, and well they should be if they haven't planned for currents. But as those who live south of the Narrows can attest, and those who've already been there, it can be done safely and with best use of the currents. 
(You will need NOAA Current Tables and Tidal Current Charts, Puget Sound, Southern Part. There is also considerable information in Chapter 10 of the Gunkholing in South Puget Sound book on currents in the Narrows, Colvos and Dalco passages and other areas.)
Once south of the Narrows bridge(s) you may go through Hale Passage between Fox Island and Gig Harbor Peninsula and under the fixed bridge, if your vessel has a vertical clearance of less than 31 feet. It's a shortcut for those coming from the north. For those who need more clearance, go south of Fox, between that island and McNeil. Or, if you're coming from the south, go through Pitt Passage. Keep at least 100 yards off all of McNeil's shores as required by the state Department of Corrections as the state prison is on the island's south shore. Do not pick up swimmers in the vicinity of McNeil. We were advised some time back that vessels should stay south and west of the middle of Carr Inlet to avoid obstructions that may be in the Navy "buoy testing area" off the southwest shore of Fox Island. If the Navy plans to test in the area an advance notice will be given in the weekly Local Notice to Mariners available on line at Thirteenth District LNM. Kopachuck State Park is about 1.7 miles north of Green Point on the shore of Gig Harbor Peninsula and it's an unexpected delight for those who've not visited. Kopachuck's musical name originated from Chinook jargon. "Kopa" means "with" or "by," and "chuck" means "water". 
There are two mooring buoys, an artificial reef for scuba diving, over one mile of unspoiled shoreline to explore, "warm" swimming and beachcombing. The park is part of the Marine Trail for kayaks and other hand-powered boats. Kopachuck's 109 acres include towering stands of second-growth Douglas firs, dense underbrush, plus many varieties of animals, birds and harbor seals.
There are campsites, picnic sites, kitchen shelters, restrooms with hot showers (in summer) and outdoor showers for swimmers and divers plus trails galore through the forest. The park is also accessible by land; there is no boat launch ramp. Cutts Island, just 1/2 mile offshore from Kopachuck, is another charming marine park, one of several island parks in South Sound accessible only by water. Cutts has 5-1/2 acres of forest and trails, with 2,100 feet of shoreline; a veritable treasure, a satellite of Kopachuck. This is the kind of place we love: tiny, easily accessible but isolated and peaceful. Cutts has eight mooring buoys, a porta-potty, and no camping--kayakers may camp at Kopachuck. A large, not very deep cave on the west side of the island makes for imaginative spelunking for the younger set. A caution: there is poison oak on Cutts, so stick to the trails. A distinctive 60 foot high bluff with large erratic boulders scattered on the beach below is at the south end of the island. A long sandy spit projects from the north end, nearly reaching private Raft Island. The water depth between the islands is charted at one fathom, one foot at mean lower low water. Locals say they pass through easily without grounding. We did too-in a kayak. We didn't try it in the Sea Witch-Jo doesn't like to be in water shallow enough to pick up clamshells unless she's in a kayak. Cutts was known as Deadman's Island as it had been an Indian burial ground where the dead were placed in canoes in the forks of trees. Peter Puget named it Crow Island after his men breakfasted on crow stew on the second morning of their expedition into the Sound. For more information about the state parks phone (253) 265-3606. Moorage fees at state parks are $10 per night for buoys. If it's blowing hard out of the south and you feel uncomfortable on a buoy, which may be exposed to southerlies, there is an option. Horsehead Bay, 1/2 mile south of Kopachuck, is a great little gunkhole. The bay is good shelter in most weather. We found the best anchoring is well inside the bay in about two fathoms. Horsehead Bay has a single lane launch ramp and 2,000 feet of public beach in the southeast portion, while all the uplands other than the ramp are private. NOAA charts and other helpful publications:
 Join Jo and Carl at Abraxus Books February 15, for an evening of wine, cheese and sharing their years of experience sailing in and around Puget Sound. (details) ...back to 48° North title page.
|