Fond Memories of the Shetlands
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Same shot at Lerwick, Shetland Mainland, that Amanda had in her article, only with our boat at the mooring.
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Amanda’s November article (Galley Essentials with Amanda) brought back fond memories of our similar 1985 cruise north of Scotland. Now that I am down about Latitude 38 it’s fine to be able to pick up 48° North at a local West Marine. After several years living aboard and cruising on the Columbia River and San Juans, I’ve missed your great magazine.
After wintering at Les Sables d’Olonne, I had sailed my Hallberg-Rassy Monsun 31, up around Britanny, to the Scilly Isles, the Isle of Man, Crosshaven, Ireland, the Scottish Hebrides and a pleasurable week or so in the Orkneys. Incidentally, we were told that Cape Wrath, the NW corner of Scotland, is not named for the weather or sea conditions, but has a folk history connection.
In contrast to the Neals, we had fine sailing weather except for a gale the last hour going into the Bergen Norway entrance.
Heading north for the Shetlands, we noticed, hey, Fair Isle is halfway there, why not stop and see if they still knit the Fair Isle sweaters and what else is there? Guess it was an example of a fairly casual style of cruising. We anchored near the Good Shepherd dock in the natural harbor and dinghied ashore to see the one store with its supply of Fair Isle sweaters. The bird research station has huge funnel shaped wire screens to catch the fowl.
The Isle of Man was another unplanned island stop that turned out extra well, sailing around it and stopping in two or three of the drying harbors. The passage from Fair Isle to Lerwick was in thick fog that cleared as we entered the harbor. We had navigated by dead reckoning and celestial on the Atlantic crossing, not having Loran or radar. Of course GPS wasn’t on yet and Sat nav was beyond our budget. We depended a good deal on RDF.
A number of East European factory fishing vessels were anchored in the outer harbor. We anchored further in, in front of one of the Lodberries, the old stone buildings Amanda mentions, having their feet in the water. On our dinghy trip back from the inner harbor, a gentleman living in one of them generously suggested we use his mooring buoy as he was concerned about the anchorage.
Surprisingly, few charts were available in Lerwick and we needed one for the passage to Norway. The same elderly fellow gave us the needed chart, for which we are forever grateful. Lerwick is quite a colorful place. The brightly painted fleet of traditional seaworthy Shetland fishing vessels are regularly raced. To the west, on the same island (Mainland) a prehistoric village site has been excavated, with its stone monolith.
The passage to Norway is littered with oil rigs which would only have been a problem for us in fog. I feel some affinity with John Neal as I think his first Hallberg Rassy was a Monsun 31 like I was sailing. It was the last of the full keel HR designs. I found it a great boat, small enough to singlehand easily but could accommodate several guests. The Swede, Kurt Bjorklund, circumnavigated three times, singlehanded, in a Monsun.
Jim Crittenden
64 W. Napa Dr.
Petaluma CA 94954
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Shetland sailing dories at the dock shows how they are rigged with bowsprit and boomkin.
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Can I Get a 1.5-foot Refund?
I find it interesting that the staff at Shilshole Marina is measuring boats to see if they are longer than the slips they are in (Letters, 48° North, November). I moor my Islander 30 at Harbor Island Marina, another Port of Seattle facility. There is a piling directly in front of my boat in a 32’ slip (D-7). I measured the dock and there is only 30.5’ of usable space, but I pay for the whole 32’.
Do you think there is any chance the Port would charge me for a smaller slip? Yeah, right.
Jerry McDonald
S/V Endlig
Seattle, WA
I think you’ve got two chances; slim and none. But, you never know. Never hurts to ask, if only to tug on their tail.
"O Come Ye to the Marina"
Thanks so much for the "O Come Ye to the Marina" - In the December ‘08 issue. Fantastic. Well written and very much appreciated, besides being very clever and fun to read.
Best Regards,
David Vacanti
Aerospace Fellow
Swap Meet Dates?
We come up every year from Sausalito for your Swap Meet. Do you have dates set yet so we can plan our trip?
Thanks,
Bob Turtle
Sausolito, CA
No dates set yet, but we’ll be putting out the word as soon as we can get something set with Fisheries Supply.
Boat is Not a NW 18
Thank you for printing the contact information for Mr. Demmell, owner of the Oslojolle US#1. A friend alerted me to the posting, and I have emailed him.
I am not sure if I ever followed up on our Oslojolle derivative, which was thought by some to be a NW 18. We appreciate your effort in helping us contact the designer/builder of the NW 18. We were able to determine that our boat is not a NW 18, although it is very close in most aspects.
Thanks again,
Matthew A. Meacham
Gig Harbor Washington
Shawl Bay vs Shoal Bay
Picture Captions in article "North to the Broughtons" by Becky Coffield The caption for the large picture on page 42/43 reads "Left: Majestic view from Shawl Bay Pub". It is from Shoal Bay, not Shawl Bay. On page 44, the picture at the bottom is captioned "A contented boater picks vegetables at Shawl Bay." Again, this is at Shoal Bay. The names may sound similar, but the two areas are very different. I’m sure I am not the only one to point out this error, so just add me to the list.
Jim
S/V Aeolus
Nice catch. There is a Shawl Bay (page 251 of "Waggoner Cruising Guide," Broughtons section) but definitely a different place. The captions should read Shoal instead of Shawl.
Disappointed with Visiting Sailors
I’m sorry to have to write this but maybe some good can come out of it. By default, I’m sort of in charge of the Blakely Island Marina since the operator left unexpectedly early in September. The homeowners here have the store, fuel dock and transient moorage leased for the next 20 years from the owner and we are trying to make a go of it, it ain’t easy. The operator we sublet it to ran it for three years and finally couldn’t stand the bleeding anymore.
Being a sailor I was excited about the "Round the County" race. It starts at Lydia Shoal which is just around the corner from us and a lot of racers come in one or two nights before the start. To make a long story short, when the boats started arriving I met them at the dock, moved our boat to provide another slip and generally welcomed everyone to the marina. I also mentioned that moorage envelopes were at the front door of the store (hint, hint). Out of 16 boats, four paid up front (Thank you!), the rest I slowly collected after three trips down to "remind" everyone about the moorage.
couldn’t stand the bleeding anymore.
The first time I was nice, even though I was disappointed in the number of unrequested payments. Everyone was having a good time, cooking in the cabana and drinking a little (?) beer. The second time I wasn’t very nice (only two more had paid), this was about 9 p.m. I went boat to boat and knocked on windows and hulls and told everyone that hadn’t paid that they needed to, now. The next morning at 7 a.m. I went to the marina ( I was going to go out to watch the start); only three more boats had paid. I again went around to all the boats that hadn’t paid and collected the moorage, many boats had their engines running and were getting their sails set up. I got the impression from a couple guys that they were upset that I was "bothering" them as they were getting ready! I have to admit that I gave all the boats that had paid, the latest wind info off the computer and wished them good luck, the others I said good riddance to.
couldn’t stand the bleeding anymore.
Big difference from the weekend before when the Bellingham Yacht Club came for their annual Turkey Fry: everyone paid as soon as they tied up and they invited us to dinner as well!
couldn’t stand the bleeding anymore.
Small marinas are having a hard time staying open and the costs of maintaining docks, fuel systems, electrical, water, etc. is unbelievable. We aren’t even sure if we will be able to have the store open next summer, but we are hoping with volunteer help to have fuel and transient moorage available.
couldn’t stand the bleeding anymore.
If you value having places to stay and get fuel etc., please do the right thing and pay your moorage, even if someone doesn’t come around to collect it.
Thanks,
John Davidson
Blakely Island
Thanks for the letter, John. I have to admit I’m a bit taken aback by those that made collecting their moorage fee such an unpleasant chore. Of course I’m biased, but I’ve always found sailors pretty easy going in following the rules. I can’t, offhand, think of one skipper I know that would stiff a marina for moorage. Of course, there are always exceptions but let’s just chalk it up to the excitement of the upcoming race. Let this serve as a gentle reminder to all to take care of those that are taking care of you.
Is the Fourth Amendment alive and well on our waters?
We’ve known for years that the U. S. Coast Guard has the right to stop us and search our boats without having to bother with those pesky little details called "warrants" or "probable cause." Lately, I’ve heard that the dreaded Department of Homeland Security is likewise not bound by the Constitution, either. I talked to a skipper who was boarded on two separate occasions just outside the breakwater of his home marina. Homeland Security demanded, among other things, to know where he’d come from (duh!), where he was going, and why he was going there.
My question pertains to our LOCAL law enforcement agencies. I’ve heard rumors of local police departments, county sheriffs, etc. boarding boats under the guise of "safety checks." Do they have the right to do that without warrants or any probable cause? They can’t arbitrarily stop me on the highway and search my vehicle. Nor can they come and search my home just to see if I might be "up to something." But it seems there’s a good possibility that they can do exactly that with my boat.
I’ve had a lot of trouble getting any information on this subject or finding anyone who can provide a straight answer. Perhaps 48° North can do better. I think we all need to know exactly what rights we do (or don’t) have.
Charlie Long
Gig Harbor
This is something that comes up at least once or twice a year, even before 9/11. I guess the answer is, "Yes," they can pretty much do what they want under the guise of safety and homeland security. Boaters getting boarded repeatedly is not the norm, but anyone can be boarded and inspected at any time.
There have been an abundance of privacy issues raised because of Homeland Security practices, all the way to the Supreme Court, and a lot of latitude has been given in that regard. It’s an irritation unless it works, then they’re heroes.
Much to dismay of many boaters, the CG has long been stopping vessels for safety issues. We’ve talked a lot with the Coast Guard about this. They are charged with the task of being responsible for those who don’t act responsibly on the water. It is truly amazing how many vessels and skippers don’t comply with safety measures. And who do these people call at the first sign of danger – the Coast Guard.
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